小时候一出门就见山。山西是个靠山吃山的地方,有花草有蘑菇有野菜有松鼠野兔,偶尔晚上也听得到狼叫。
秋天上山随处可见好吃的。小路边,山坡上,绿叶底下到处都是野果诱人的红黄色。酸枣、“醋柳子”、“圪碱”,一路摘一路吃,最后还能举着几大枝回家慢慢吃。吃不掉的话,“醋柳子”可以做酱,酸枣和“圪碱”可以晒干磨成粉,据说都相当开胃——我的野果摘回去基本都是当天消灭干净,不存在吃不掉的问题,自然也没机会搞这些加工。
老家方言“醋柳子”其实就是沙棘。不知道哪年突然兴起沙棘汁,后来酸枣汁也出现了,对这两样东西也就没什么残念。“圪碱”这个东西呢,离开老家就没见过,更没听过。
就是这货,好吃得很,甜的,吃多了略微有点涩。一直以为“圪碱”的“碱”就是从这点涩味来的。
今晚忽然想起来,四处搜索,原来它的大名叫“牛奶子”(wiki: Elaeagnus umbellata)……我就不明白这货哪点像牛哪点像奶子了。有个别名叫“剪子果”,貌似是陕西甘肃一带这么叫——这货也不像剪刀啊。
查到“剪子果”,“圪碱”这个名字也就大概猜出来历了。山西话说小的、细碎的东西,前面往往有个“圪”,加上剪刀果的“剪”,嗯,就是这么回事吧。
“圪”也有小气/不上台面的意思,譬如“圪抠”(抠抠缩缩),“圪蹴”(蹲)。是不是因为它不好保存,又没法拿来加工成果汁果浆,所以只能一直低调地当着山里的野果?
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